Vineyard Invasion Attempt Thwarted by PiWis Entity
In the ever-evolving world of vino, trends come and go just as they do in the fashion world. Gone are the days of gleaming stainless steel wineries and perfectly primped vineyards – it's all about a more laid-back approach.
In the winemaking industry, it means embracing the old oak and natural ferments, while in the fields, it's about letting things get a bit wild – less trimming, more weeds in between the rows, and a minimalist approach to pesticides. This shift towards a more hands-off approach is driven by environmental concerns and a desire to showcase the authentic taste of the land.
However, this newfound carefreeness isn't always a walk in the park, especially for classic wine grapes like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Nebbiolo. Much like high- Maintenance thoroughbreds, these elegant and high-toned grape varieties need a bit of TLC to thrive. The challenges are particularly Acute in regions with marginal climates or extreme weather conditions, as a result of climate change.
This is where hybrid grape varieties come into play. Sometimes called PiWis (short for Pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning 'fungus resistant'), these grapes are a cross between a vitis vinifera variety and a variety from another species of the grapevine family, usually vitis labrusca. Native to the US, vitis labrusca aren't exactly as smooth-talking as their vitis vinifera counterparts, but they are considerably hardier – perfect for the challenges presented by climate change and the quest for lower intervention winemaking.
It's important to note that PiWis are not the same as varieties created by a mix of two vitis vinifera. Pinotage, for example, is a man-made variety created by crossing Cinsault and Pinot Noir, while Cabernet Sauvignon occurred naturally as a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.
Hybrid grapes have been around for quite some time, but they used to be relegated to the sidelines due to their role in producing large volumes with minimal effort. This led to a rather unfavorable reputation. However, with the advent of climate change, lower intervention, and some pretty exciting new varieties, the PiWis are making a comeback. They're blended with traditional varieties or used on their own to create single varietal wines.
Varieties like Cabernet Noir and Souvignier Gris are already making a name for themselves, garnering impressive reputations, and other varieties are sure to follow. Vineyards aren't particularly sprawling yet, but there's a definite energy in the category, and they're growing steadily. So, will we be sipping on Solaris, Orion, and Cabernet Jura alongside Pinot Grigio and Shiraz in ten years' time? It's possible!
To get a sense of what's happening in the world of PiWis, we spoke to growers at different stages of their PiWi journey to find out their thoughts on these resilient grapes and the future of the category.
Fabian Zähringer, Weingut Zähringer, Baden
Credit: L.Greiner / Medienagenten
Fabian's father was a pioneer of organic winemaking in Baden in the late 1980s and put in his first hybrid vines in the mid-1990s because they were more resistant to mildew. Today, PiWis make up 20% of their vineyard, and Fabian expects them to top out at around 30-50% in the future.
"In general, hybrids are much better for us in the vineyards," says Fabian. "They're a lot less work and need less protection. They just need a lot less in the way of treatments, which means less expense on diesel for the tractors and so on. PiWis are one of the most important tools we have in meeting the challenges of climate change."
While PiWis offer numerous benefits, managing the tannins is the biggest challenge. Fabian shared that there are two generations of PiWis – the first planted in the 1990s are mostly behind the new ones, which are more resistant. However, they really like Johanniter from the first generation – it's a very important component for their basic sparkling wine.
When it comes to white varieties, Souvignier Gris ranks at the top for Fabian. The tiny, loose berries are incredibly healthy, and when they emerge, they taste amazing!
Roman Tournier, Roman Des Vignes (formerly Wine Impact), Toulouse
For Roman, viticulture is just one part of his farm in southwest France. Until recently, he sold his grapes to the local co-op, but after studying oenology and doing internships around the world, he's keen to build his own label, and lean into hybrids to do it. Currently, he buys fruit from local growers, but in the next two years, he plans to replant his own vineyards with hybrid varieties.
"I was struck by the reality of climate change in our region," says Roman. "A lot of rain during spring. And you could have 30mm of rain one day, and then over 20°C the next. That's the perfect conditions for diseases like powdery mildew, oidium and black rot. If I'm going to make my own wine, I want it to have a future – not to lose a lot of my vintage because of diseases!"
Interest in PiWis has been growing, and it's not just because of their climate resilience and disease resistance. They also offer savings on treatments, which can be a significant cost advantage. For Roman, his favorite PiWi varieties are Souvignier Gris, which offers some bitterness and exotic fruit aromas, and Muscaris, a Muscat child that adds balance and freshness to the blend.
Guillaume Lagger, The Wharie Experience, Hampshire
Guillaume first became interested in PiWis while studying viticulture and winemaking in Switzerland in 2017. He planted his entire Hampshire vineyard to hybrids in 2021 and is excited to be harvesting his first crop this summer.
"I haven't sprayed my vineyard at all since I planted it," he says. "If I have to, I'll use copper maybe twice a year, compared to 15 times a year for vitis vinifera. That's a significant saving, but yields for PiWis can also be quite big. You need to be careful not to overcrop them, but they are definitely more regular in quantity than vitis vinifera."
Guillaume plans to harvest nine PiWi varieties – five white and four red – including popular varieties like Souvignier Gris, Solaris, Divico, Cabernet Noir, and Muscaris. New varieties like Cal 128, which doesn't even have an official name yet, offer even more potential for innovative wine production.
The PiWis generally ripen earlier, which can be a blessing in regions like the UK, where there can be significant variations between vintages.
All three growers express a hope that PiWis will become more widely adopted in the future. While they currently represent a small percentage of vineyard area, there's a definite energy in the category, and they're growing steadily. So, let's raise a glass to the resilience and adaptability of PiWis – they just might be the future of the wine industry!
The shift towards lower intervention winemaking, driven by environmental concerns and the desire to showcase the authentic taste of the land, has brought hybrid grape varieties, often called PiWis, to the forefront. These grapes are a mix of vitis vinifera and other species of the grapevine family, offering considerable hardiness that is beneficial for grapevines in regions affected by climate change. Fabian Zähringer, a grower in Germany, believes PiWis to be one of the most important tools for meeting the challenges of climate change due to their negligible treatment needs, and he currently has 20% of his vineyard dedicated to PiWis, expecting it to reach 30-50% in the future.
