A Groundbreaking Sonoma Winery Surpasses Anticipations and Spans Generations
Winemaking is a narrative. A new vineyard in Sonoma County shares its narrative of an unending bond through each bottle of zinfandel it produces, more so now as it completes its inaugural year in operation.
A bottle of Frolick serves as a canvas for creativity and an enticement to revel in any emotions that may surface as the beverage traverses the palate. Cynthia Russell and her daughter, Lauren, didn't initially plan to forge a business partnership, but they couldn't ignore the message they felt their newly acquired 12-acre property was conveying. They ultimately recognized that they had the capacity to contribute an invaluable perspective to the wine industry, resonating with individuals across generations.
Celebrating Zinfandel
Navigating life in New York City during the pandemic's unique challenges led the Russells to embark on a spontaneous adventure. On a whim, the family acquired the Sonoma property to embrace a more natural lifestyle and a closer connection to both the land and each other. However, they faced a daunting physical and emotional challenge when they had to restore the vineyard scarred by recent wildfires, which had ruined that year's harvest.
They contemplated abandoning their venture, but once they learned about their new property's rich wine-making history, they reconsidered. “Zinfandel is America's grape,” Cynthia remarked. “Why buy this home just to look around when there's such a storied history of wine-making right here?” They decided to pursue a winemaking course at UC Davis to ensure they were actively involved in their winemaking journey.
Cultivating a vineyard and subsequently a wine enterprise, while challenging, was not entirely foreign to the mother-daughter duo. Lauren had prior experience in beer marketing at AB InBev prior to attending Columbia Business School, while Cynthia, an alumna of Harvard Business School, had a discerning palate for wine, especially after living in France and establishing a direct marketing travel club for American Express.
Although tempted to cultivate a variety of grapes, the Russells ultimately decided to embrace the abundance of Dry Creek Valley, renowned for its zinfandel. “It has a stony, iron-rich, reddish soil,” Advanced Sommelier Alexandria Sarovich, the proprietor of Own Rooted Hospitality, said of Dancing's vineyard. “It's dry all growing season, adding to the grapes' complexity.” The robust and resilient zinfandel grapes thrive in the temperature fluctuations from day to night, making them ideal for the varietal. “It's what gives zinfandel its juiciness and deliciousness,” Cynthia explained.
A Union of Two Generations
During the vineyard restoration process, Cynthia and Lauren felt a striking similarity between their own personal bond and the enduring vines. “Wine has been a part of human interaction and experience,” Cynthia noted. “Lauren's generation is intimidated by choosing a wine. For me, that world is inviting and accessible.” Their shared experience inspired the branding of their esteemed zinfandel: a blend of old and new vines, embodying their unique relationship.
Based on their research, they believe the Old Vine is over 50 years old. These head-trained vines yield fewer grapes, making them more concentrated and complex. Sarovich referred to the Old Vine as a "combination of power and pedigree." It exhibits "a deeper, dark fruit characteristic and more of a chocolatey characteristic," with the oak more evident, offering more spice and vanilla. The first vintage was harvested in 2022 and aged in new oak barrels for 15 months. Although distinct in personality, the process of creating the new Estate zinfandel, while juicier and more tannic, is remarkably similar, with the vines only about 20 years old.
The story of two generations uniting could have been told through crafting the Old Vine and Estate zinfandels separately, but it is truly encapsulated in the decision to make the Duo, a blend of both.
A novel approach that distinguishes Dancing's zinfandel from others is their decision to harvest the grapes earlier than usual. “A lot of zinfandel can be overly sweet, overly heavy...what the region has been doing for centuries,” Lauren explained. “We prefer lighter, more acidic varietals with lower alcohol content and brighter flavors. It begins with the farming process—we don't want the grapes to remain on the vine for an extended period.”
On the traditional side, they have embraced the European-style wine-making approach by operating as a single-estate vineyard, utilizing exclusively their own grapes. Sarovich described how in Europe, there's a tendency towards "old-school thinking," with a firm no to purchasing grapes from other sources. Dancing sources its grapes for the subsequent winemaking process to nearby J. Rickards Winery in Geyserville.
The family has also planted new zinfandel vines, with plans to release a new sparkling rosé and a sparkling blanc de blancs in 2025.
A unique vocabulary and trendy presentation are contributing to the gap between current new drinkers and the wine industry. Certain brands have attempted to attract this lost demographic by talking their language, yet they often overstep the mark. As Cynthia has observed, there's a persistent quest for meaning and thoughtfulness, connection, and history. Younger generations are not interested in excessive amounts of these elements, but they also don't want things to be overly polished, false, and insignificant.
Lauren's experience has shown that younger consumers are more attracted to compelling storytelling than anything else. "The aspect that resonates the most with the younger crowd is the brand itself...the fun, accessible luxury," Lauren explains. "It's this balance between creating something amusing and preserving tradition." When Gen Z and Millennial drinkers are drawn to a product due to the success of this branding, they then take a sip of a zinfandel, a wine they might not have tried before, and begin to recognize what sets this grape apart from more commercialized ones. Older generations, while they too appreciate the branding, have been known to buy Dancing by the case; they're confident that this is a wine they want to consume.
It may have been a coincidence, but according to Sarovich, zinfandel is "the ideal entry point into red wines." "It's juicy and so fruit-forward that even though it's a dry-style wine, it seems to have natural sweetness to it." Rosés also serve as an easy entry into wine, as evidenced by Dancing's rosé being its top-selling product this year. Unlike other wineries, Dancing intentionally harvests grapes to make rosé, as opposed to using leftover grapes.
The ultimate objective is to free drinkers from any imposed notions or pressure to experience wine in a certain manner. "Everyone should be able to express their individuality and celebrate that," Lauren emphasizes. "We discovered that 'Dancing' is a playful metaphor for self-expression freedom."
The abstract dancers on each Dancing bottle vary depending on the bottle and vintage you select. "They're based on the products and our current feelings," Lauren explains. "There's a sense of fluidity...just a different perspective of our interpretation of Dancing." Dancing encourages you to connect with its wine from the moment you first see its bottle–and then continue it with those you share it with.
The Russells chose to focus on zinfandel grapes, as Dry Creek Valley is renowned for its robust and resilient zinfandel, with a soil that adds complexity to the grapes due to its stony, iron-rich, reddish nature. Despite the challenges of wildfires and pandemic, they persevered and decided to pursue a winemaking course at UC Davis.
They also cultivated Old Vine zinfandel, which is over 50 years old, yielding fewer but more concentrated grapes with a deeper, dark fruit characteristic and more chocolatey and spicy notes. The first vintage was aged in new oak barrels for 15 months. Their New Vine zinfandel, while juicier and more tannic, shares a similar winemaking process with the Old Vine, emphasizing the union of two generations in their wine.
In the spirit of self-expression and individuality, the Russells named their zinfandel 'Dancing', and designed abstract dancers on each bottle to reflect their current feelings and interpretations. They aim to break free from any imposed notions or pressures regarding wine consumption, encouraging drinkers to express their individuality and celebrate their experiences with Dancing.
The Dry Creek Valley's ideal growing conditions for zinfandel grapes have led to its reputation as "America's grape" and an enticing draw for wine enthusiasts. Dancing Zinfandel's unique story and approach resonates with both older and younger generations, appealing to a wide audience with its juicy, fruit-forward profile and delicious, complex character.
The Russells also plan to release a new sparkling rosé and blanc de blancs in 2025, continuing their innovative approach and commitment to crafting exceptional wine that celebrates the bond between generations and the joy of shared experiences through the narrative of a bottle of Zinfandel.
